Entries in Bali (14)

Sunday
May232010

5/19/10 (legian)

Legian - Ubud

It was our last day in Legian. Annie and I packed up and checked out of our hotel. We tracked down a cab on the street and it was a big of a race against the clock to catch our bus on time due to some heavy traffic on Legian Street on our way to the Parama bus depot. We arrived just in time and were fortunate to sneak onto the air conditioned bus. The trip to Ubud took about an hour and a half and it was a very congested ride. The congestion comes from the hundreds of scooters that weave in and around the larger cars. We were told that the population of Bali is 3.4 million people and half of them own a motor bike on this very small island nation.

We arrived in Ubud shortly after 12pm and we were greeted by some aggressive cab drivers when we stepped off the bus. Annie called our home stay and arranged for a pick up. Ubud had been described as the real Bali. It is located in the middle of the country at the base of the mountains. Bali is known for their rice fields and there are plenty to see in the area. Ubud is also famous for being a holistic community and has many wellness retreats and yoga centers. We waited about twenty minutes and Suma from the Sawah Sunrise Bed and Breakfast picked us up and drove us through the monkey forest on our way to the home stay. We passed through the main streets of Ubud and while it isn’t nearly as congested as Kuta it is still a thriving community and the streets are lined with restaurants and boutique clothing stores. After a short ride we pulled up to a dead end and Suma informed us we had a five minute walk to our place. Nyoman met us on the sidewalk and grabbed some of our luggage via his motorbike and disappeared around a corner. 

We never know what we are getting ourselves into with each new adventure and this was no exception. We walked down a narrow path that led us to rural rice fields. The path was quite busy with motorbikes and it was hard to image where they were coming from because we could barely navigate the path on foot. Fortunately after a bit we started to run into other home stays and we knew we were on the right path. We met a local artist working in his small shed and he pointed us in the right direction. It was down an even more remote path surrounded by freshly harvested rice fields. In the distance we saw a very nice place and soon realized the house was the Sawah Sunrise. We met up again with Suma and were shown to our second floor room that has some breathtaking views. Annie and I quickly settled in and listened to our many neighborhood roosters. After a bit we headed back into town and visited the information center to map out our next few days and grab some dinner. White at dinner I was able to upload my Australian time lapse video and then we were back to the home stay to settle in for the night.

Saturday
May222010

5/18/10 (legian)

Legian – Tanah Lot – Luhur Uluwatu – Jimbaran

Our driver, Dewa Nyoman Parwita, picked us promptly at 9am at our hotel. We told him that we wanted to see some rice fields, a temple called Uluwatu and have dinner on the beach at Jimbaran. Oh, and we also needed to run some errands. He suggested a few things for us to do in the morning and we were off. During our drive we learned a lot from Dewa about the Balinese culture. For example, they don’t have family names but name their children according to the number they were born. Traditionally most people have four children so they have a name for one through four and if there are five kids then the fifth child’s name goes back to number one with a prefix. Dewa was the third child so his name is Nyoman. 

We first headed to Kuta to buy our bus tickets for our journey to Ubud. It was from a company called Perama, which is the biggest and one of the more reliable bus companies. As we headed to the Perama office we realized how little we had seen of Kuta or Legian. It was very commercialized with lots of shops, bars, and restaurants. It was a lot more crowded than the area of Legian where we were staying at. We were eager to get out of the city. Dewa suggested we visit Pura Tanah Lot, which is a temple on an island all by itself just off the coast. On the way to Tanah Lot we passed through some rice paddies so we had to stop to snap some photos. Some farmers were just in the process of planting new seeds. We learned that a harvest takes about four months, which means in a year there may be only two harvests. It is very strenuous work since the farmers are bending down all day in the rice paddies. When we arrived at the temple, Dewa showed us the walkway to the temple and he waited by the car while we toured the temple. During low tide you can walk to the island but only certain people can enter the temple. We went in the mid morning when it was high tide so we could only admire temple from a distance. We met a French photographer named Christophe who was in Bali to photograph a wedding and in a few days to Malaysia for another wedding. Jon and him chatted for a bit about their cameras and Christophe was interested in the slider that Jon was using. 

After the temple we were ready for lunch so Dewa drove us back down south to Seminyak where he recommended a restaurant for us to try. What was unique about having a driver is that he drives you to each location and directs you into the place and then waits by the car. They even have little resting huts for the drivers to nap while the tourists do their thing. The restaurant was very nice and the food was good too. It was a little more upscale than the places we had eaten at.

Then it was time to run some important errands. We had run out of shampoo and we hadn’t found a drugstore or supermarket nearby our hotel so Dewa drove us to a Target like store. We felt a little weird having him drive us to buy shampoo but it was important since we had been washing our hair with soap the last few days. Jon asked Dewa about getting a SIM card for our internet modem so Dewa took us to a phone store. We met a Balinese man who was a real character and we could tell he had seen a lot of Western movies. He talked to us about Al Capone and Tom Hanks and all sorts of movie stars. 

Now that we were all done with our errands we headed down to Uluwatu. On our way down we drove along the coast and through Padang Padang, which is a big surfing community. It looked really nice and had some nice waves so we might consider coming back to this area before we leave Bali.

When we arrived at the temple, Dewa warned us of the monkeys. The monkeys are very cheeky and will snatch anything they see. As we walked the footpath to get to the temple there were several monkeys around. Some were hanging out by themselves, others were cleaning themselves or others. We saw several chewing on hair ties, sunglasses, and water bottles. They are definitely very clever and some even posed for Jon while he shot some video of them. On another occasion we saw a monkey snatch a camera cord out of someone’s bag. There was an elderly lady trying to coax that monkey with some bananas. We are not sure if that guy ever got his cord back since the monkey ran away.

The temple is located on a cliff top overlooking the Indian Ocean. The sun was just setting so we had a beautiful view. Each night the temple hosts a dance called Kecak Ramayana and Fire Dance. There was about fifty men chanting while men and women in elaborate costume and headgear performed a story about man trying to rescue his wife who has been captured by another man. We couldn’t understand the chanting or singing but still able to get the jest of the story. It was a beautiful performance.

By the time we left the performance it was late so we headed to Jimbaran for dinner. Our friend, Kylie, had told us about this area which is known for their seafood and beachside dinners. There are fisherman out in the ocean everyday and bring in fresh catch. When we arrived at the restaurant we picked out the seafood we wanted and how we wanted it prepared. We ordered a grilled red snapper and some prawns. We sat right on the beach and there was about twenty other restaurants lined up right next to each other. Our waiter was very charismatic and told us all sorts of stories, of which we only believed about ten percent but at least he was entertaining. 

We got done with dinner around nine o’clock so we were ready to call it a night. We could only imagine how tired Dewa was but he was as friendly as ever. He even shared with us how his family had been affected by the black magic, which may seem hoaxy to some but to the Balinese people it is taken very seriously.

He drove us safely back to our hotel and we parted ways. What I appreciated about Dewa was his friendliness, English speaking skills, sense of humor, clean a/c car, careful driving, and desire to share with us as much of his culture as possible. We had a great day exploring a small part of Bali.

We certainly recommend him to anyone visiting Bali. www.baliexploretours.com

Saturday
May222010

5/16/10 – 5/17/10 (legian)

Legian

There are three towns, Kuta-Legian-Seminyak, along the beach of southern Bali that is pretty touristy. We weren’t quite sure where to stay in Bali and picked Legian since it is supposed to be not as crowded as Kuta but not as expensive at Seminyak, which is where all the boutique shops were located. We figured it was a good base for us until we figured out where to go next. 

It was very quiet at the hotel so much so that we weren’t sure if there was anyone else staying there. It provided pretty basic accommodations with no frills but it had a/c and hot water. There was also fresh fruit and toast provided every morning. After breakfast we decided to walk along the beach to check out the area. There were many restaurants and hotels that lined the streets along with people asking you if you needed a driver. The waves looked pretty good and there were a lot of surfers out. We asked a few hotels to see if they had any openings and realized that our hotel was a pretty good value for what we were getting. There were very nice hotels which cost around $80/night, which is pretty affordable and if traveling for a short period of time. We decided to stay at our hotel since it offered us the basic necessities of what we were looking for. After staying there a bit longer we got more comfortable with our surroundings.

It was very muggy and just after a few minutes of walking we were sweating as if we had just run a marathon. We were looking for a bookstore to get a guidebook and after walking an hour we relented to a taxi. It felt so good to be in an air-conditioned car. The taxi driver took us to the Seminyak market where there were cafes and a bookstore. We book our guidebook only to realize later that it was a 2008 version. Oh well. It probably has all the same information and we use the guidebook more as a reference of where things are rather than as a source of information. 

After lunch we went on a search for a SIM card for our cell phone. It was a bit difficult trying to figure out how the system worked. We shopped around a bit and met a nice lady in a fabric store who found us anther lady who sold SIM cards. She seemed nice and her explanation of how to use the phone was completely different from what a guy in another shop told us. Even though she sold SIM cards out of a fanny pack we trusted her. Our two main goals for the day were accomplished.

Jon was going to go surfing the next day but the waves weren’t as good. We decided to stay low key and figure out what we wanted to see while we were in the Legian area. Several people had told us hiring a driver is the best route since they will be able to show you around and also maneuver through the traffic. We found a driver on trip advisor who had a well maintained website and a friendly photo of himself. He offered us a reasonable deal compared to others and spoke pretty good English on the phone. It is hard to choose unless you have a personal recommendation so really you just have to trust that it will work out. We also decided that we wanted to get out of the city and see the rest of Bali. We heard great things about Ubud from many people. We found a homestay, rated #1 Ubud homestay on trip advisor, for $30/night and decided to book it for three nights.

For dinner that night we went to a warung, which is a small street side restaurant or foodstall. It was packed with locals and tourists. There were small lizards crawling on the wall but no one seemed to mind. They gave you a card with a price on it for each item you ordered so some tables with lots of people had a stack of cards. We got spring rolls as appetizer and Jon had nasi goreng (fried rice) while I had rice with lots of different vegetables that you can choose from a buffet like table. It was probably one of the best meals we had so far on our Balinese trip and all for less than $10! That’s what I’m talking about.

Saturday
May222010

5/15/10 (cairns)

Cairns – Darwin – Bali (Legian)

Today was our fly day. We were going from Cairns to Darwin and then heading to Bali. It was more expensive to fly from Cairns to Bali with most flights going back to Brisbane first. We booked two separate flights. Our flight to Darwin was quick and we gave ourselves plenty of time to get our luggage before going to check into our Bali flight. It was a five hour wait before we could board for our Bali flight. The airport miraculously had free internet so we were set. I even got to talk to a good friend via facebook. When it was almost time for us to board we were told they were having engine issues and there would be a small delay. The delay ended up lasting an extra two hours so we spent a good deal of time getting to know the Darwin airport. We finally boarded the flight and it was smooth sail to Bali.

When we arrived in Bali it was about 10pm and everyone was just happy to get out of the airport.  As we were walking to get our bags there were about 15 porters pulling everyone’s bags out of the conveyor belt. They had all the bags nicely lined up for people to come pick them up. As we went to grab our bags two porters approached us to help with our bags. We nicely declined but they were very insistent and almost took our bags away from us. We were in a bit of a daze as to what was going on or what to do. We were just surprised by their persistence. We passed through customs without anyone asking to check our bags or ask for our outbound ticket. We were warned by the airlines and travel centers that we needed to have an outbound ticket or we may be prevented from entering Bali. We reluctantly bought our ticket to Kuala Lumpur and were disappointed to find out we really didn’t need to.

As we walked outside the humidity hit us like a brick. Even though it was late in the evening it was still very humid. We hadn’t arranged for someone to come pick us up and it took some figuring out on how to get to the hotel. We were a bit on guard after our experience with the airport porters. We finally figured out how to hire a taxi to take us to the hotel. During our drive we caught our first glimpse of Bali. There were motorcycles zooming in and out between cars. I admitted to Jon later that I was trying to remember key landmarks that we passed in case something happened to us or we were taken to a different hotel. What can I say? I was a bit paranoid and it was very late at night. Jon was a bit worried that we hadn’t heard back from the hotel confirming our reservation but I figured they were just a bit slow in getting back to us. On the other hand we did just email the hotel the day before. When we arrived at the hotel they told us they were all booked for the night but recommended we go to their sister hotel just a few minutes away. We checked into the hotel and crashed for the night. We were just happy they had air conditioning for $30/night.

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